My kind of town: Zagreb
Tony White is the literary editor of the Idler magazine. His new book Another fool in the Balkans: in the footsteps of Rebecca West is published this month by Cadogan.
The Regent Esplanade in Zagreb
Why Zagreb?
The beautiful fin-de-siecle Viennese architecture of the city centre is a legacy of Zagreb and Croatia's past as part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire: as a result, Zagreb is like a pocket-sized Vienna.
The city clusters around not one but two medieval old towns: the fortified city of Gradec (known locally as Grich) and the ecclesiastical centre, Captol, which surrounds the city's fine twin-spired Gothic cathedral. Once these two towns were bitter rivals and battles were fought on the bridge that linked them, but in the 16th century they settled their grievances and united to form what is now the Croatian capital.
What do you miss most when you are away?
Both the easy pace of the city and the generosity and hospitality of the people.
What is the first thing you do when you return?
Stroll around the city centre and explore the many museums and galleries. Every time I turn a corner I seem to discover something new.
Where is the best place to stay?
The Westin, opposite the National Theatre (Krsnjavoga 1; 00385 1 489 2000; www.westin.com; doubles from L93), has comfortable, large rooms that command spectacular views of the city.
Where would you meet friends for a drink?
Zagreb has a very Latin style of street life. On a weekday the passeggiata starts at the end of the working day and goes on until mid-evening. Anyone wanting to meet a friend in Zagreb will go for an early-evening drink at a pavement caf� on Bogoviceva Street. Take a seat at your table and order a pre-dinner coffee or grappa (called loza) and it won't be long before your friends pass by.
Where are your favourite places for lunch?
For a flavour of the city's Yugoslav past, visit the nameless local caf�s that sell cevapcici ("little kebabs") served with focaccia. There's one opposite the Hotel Jadran on Vlaska, behind the cathedral. It's hearty stuff, but wonderful.
And for dinner?
Take the funicular to the old town. A few steps to the left, at the top, is a wonderful mid-priced restaurant, Pod Grickom Topom (Zakmardijeve stube 5; 483 3607). "Pod topom" means "Under the cannon" - above the restaurant is an ancient watchtower that stood at the entrance to Gradec and from which a noon cannon is still fired every day. Try the grilled bream, served with delicious buttery potatoes and wilted spinach - the traditional Croatian accompaniment to seafood.
Where would you send a first-time visitor?
To see the extraordinary Pavilion designed by the 20th-century Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic on Zrtava Fasizma Square. This beautiful hall now hosts contemporary art exhibitions, while Mestrovic's sculptures abound in the city.
What would you tell them to avoid?
Zagreb can be bitterly cold in the winter. Visit in spring or during the "Indian" summer - known here as babije ljeto, or "grandma's summer" - between September and November.
Public transport or taxi?
In the city centre everything is within comfortable walking distance, but taxis are cheap and easy to find.
Handbag or moneybelt?
Official sources cite low crime rates in Croatia. But, as anywhere, common sense is recommended.
What should I take home?
Some wine produced by one of Croatia's new breed of winemakers. Communist-era industrialisation prioritised quantity over quality, but a few growers have been rediscovering indigenous and regional varieties, like teran or malvazija and introducing a New-World approach to quality.
One name to look out for is Matosevic, a small winemaker from Croatia's Istrian vineyards, who is setting new standards.
And if I've only time for one shop?
Go to Hrelic on a Sunday morning, the city's vast and atmospheric flea market by the Sava River. You might find anything from Modernist furniture to extraordinary 1960s chandeliers.
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